Your Bespoke Suit – An Open ‘Eye of Bespoke‘: The first step towards inner engineering

A History of Bespoke Suit Tailoring – The Drape Cut Method
Bespoke-Suite-Dubai-Process

The Eye of Bespoke, the source of guidance and inspiration for Bespoke Tailors with illuminated minds since the early 1900’s, was initially referred to by Federick Scholte of the legendary bespoke tailoring house Anderson & Sheppard in Savile Row, London. It came to Federick Scholte when he was trying a different kind of cut for the bespoke suit of King Edward the VIII who ruled from 1919-1959. King Edward was of fairly rotund physique and wanted a bespoke suit with a cut that made him appear slimmer without compromising on comfort. Federick Scholte, being a highly respected master in the craft of tailoring, took up the challenge despite being confused on how to achieve it.

 

However, he had the belief that anything and everything is possible as his mind had broken the self-created barriers and boundaries of the dimensions of reality. Over the years, mastering the craft of tailoring and bringing bespoke suits from his imagination into existence had made a deep shift in his inner dimensions, allowing him to balance his inner self with the outer world in perfect harmony. Once the balance was struck, he laid down the fabric before himself and with closed eyes, shifted his focus to the eye center which he referred to as the Eye of Bespoke. This meditative state along with his inner and outer balance would then be perfectly aligned with the Eye of Bespoke which could enable him to tap into the universal bank of knowledge and allow its energy to freely flow through him and around him, making anything and everything in his mind with regards to the suit he was tailoring, manifest into the physical dimension of his reality. This is how he brought into existence the Drape Cut method of suit making.
The Drape cut method of suit tailoring involved cutting against the grain of the fabric allowing the diagonal stretch ability of wool to drape over the curves of your body. This along with the combination of a fuller chest and the torso nipped in at a singular point in addition to a slightly flared hip gives a slimmer looking silhouette from the sides. A significantly larger sleeve-head is eased into a smaller arm-hole through a micro-pleating effect done by hand to give immense ease of arm movement. This makes the Drape Cut method of suit tailoring absolutely perfect for someone looking to achieve the right balance between aesthetics and comfort. The problem is that the shoulder and chest proportions are a very peculiar calculation that changes with every body type. This means that there isn’t and cannot be a perfect formula to achieve the Drape Cut which made it very difficult for Federick Scholte at the time to teach it to any of his students. Moreover, he was known to tailor suits using this revolutionary cut by mapping the initial suit pattern directly on the fabric. He never needed to make a paper pattern first, which is something that bespoke tailors even with the highest level of skill and confidence could not achieve, as the entire fabric would go waste if there was even the smallest mistake in calculating the proportions.

 

The only way one could master the drape cut method of suit tailoring was by seeking guidance from the Eye of Bespoke which would guide the bespoke tailor with the exact proportions pertaining to the specific suit pattern that was being cut for the client. It is therefore natural for any bespoke tailor who uses the Drape Cut method of suit tailoring to seek guidance from the All Seeing Eye of Bespoke and cut the suit pattern directly on the fabric in the same way as Federick Scholte.

Mastering Bespoke Tailoring – The Four Dimensions of Your Mind

Bespoke-Suite-Jacket-Dubai

It was also noted that a bespoke suit which was in tune with the Eye of Bespoke had the ability to redesign the wearers inner architecture in a manner that made it possible for him to re-shape his life in any which way he wanted, helping them to come closer to reaching their full potential in life. This was further believed due the long list of clients of Federick Scholte and Henry Poole which include almost everyone who has left their footprint behind such as Mayor De Rothschild, Napoleon Bonaparte and King Edward among many others. For a bespoke tailor to be able to tailor suits which are in tune with the Eye of Bespoke, they would first need to master all the four dimensions of their mind.

The first dimension is intellect – the logical dimension of thought. Once you have successfully directed your intellect to dedicatedly master the craft of tailoring you move on to the next dimension which is memory. Whatever you start learning has to be stored in your memory which includes but is not limited to the brain. Memory runs throughout your entire body. Your body remembers exactly how your forefathers looked and some part of it can be found on you even today which means every cell in your body has a phenomenal memory capacity that runs right up to the beginning of existence. Once the craft of tailoring becomes part of this memory, the ability to tailor suits becomes part of one’s second nature which would not be too different from minor tasks such as eating food or drinking water. Once the craft of bespoke suit tailoring becomes part of that memory, you move on to the next dimension which is intelligence.

 

Intelligence is very different from intellect which is only pertaining to the brain. Intelligence runs through the entire cosmos including you. Every cell in your body has the intelligence of how to make a piece of bread that you just ate, become a part of your body within minutes. The entire cosmos has an inherent intelligence which allows it to run its daily functions of life. The craft of suit tailoring needs to enter the inherent intelligence of the bespoke tailor which will propel him to the last dimension which is identity. Once the craft of suit tailoring has become a part of the basic intelligence, which is the same way the entire cosmos is run, his intelligence gets linked to the universal intelligence of the cosmos allowing one to tap into the collective intelligence of your archetype of suit tailoring accumulated over centuries of collective experience of bespoke tailors. Identifying and recognizing this supreme intelligence and universal bank of knowledge is what Federick Scholte called The Eye of Bespoke. One then simply becomes a channel through which energies of The Eye of Bespoke or any other archetype one identifies with can freely flow throughout the four dimensions of the mind. Things that are otherwise beyond comprehension of the physical brain or mental self can then be brought into existence.
A Bespoke suit that is tailored to be completely aligned and in tune with the Eye of Bespoke will then work on the same four dimensions of the mind, as your perception of yourself has now changed with what you could only imagine you look like with what you now really look like once you wear the bespoke suit. You can see, touch, feel and identify with what was previously only a figment of your imagination.

 

Something your physical mind could not have deemed possible. This will allow your mind to break through the shackles of your self-created boundaries and open your Eye of Bespoke. Once you have opened your Eye of Bespoke, you shall see and experience the same shift in your inner dimensions as your bespoke tailor who felt it while tailoring the suit. Its precision and perfection will work on all four dimensions of your mind making you achieve precision and perfection in all your actions in life. You will become one with the universal intelligence or the Eye of Bespoke allowing its energy to flow freely through the four dimensions of your illuminated mind, guiding you with the knowledge of how to manifest your thoughts into the physical dimension of your reality. Thus, an open Eye of Bespoke is the first step towards the inner engineering which will enable you to re-shape your life in any which way you desire.

Bespoke Suit Wearing Etiquette

Bespoke Suit Wearing Etiquette

Wearing a Suit is very different from wearing a “bespoke” Suit. When you enter the realm of bespoke tailoring and decide to start wearing a bespoke suit, you take the responsibility of keeping the bespoke tradition alive left behind by the nobles of the yesteryears who believed that only wearing a bespoke suit can make one achieve their full potential in life. These gentlemen who left their mark on the face of the world were known to believe that men were meant to be sublime and that achieving anything was possible as long as you had the knowledge to dress for it. You were meant to dress not like who you are, but who you want to be. Sartorial knowledge was not only considered the stepping stone of success but the power which could propel you to become one with the forces of nature, allowing you to change and shape your life in any way you wanted. If you aspire to reaching the epitome of sartorial elegance, it is absolutely necessary to follow the basic bespoke suit wearing etiquettes which will build the foundation for you and put you on the road to arriving at your destined door of unknown pleasures in life. Below are ten basic bespoke suit wearing etiquettes one absolutely must follow when wearing Bespoke Suits:

 

1- In a single breasted two button bespoke suit, always fasten the top button and leave the lower button undone. The same rule applies for a Vest, leave the last button undone.

Two Button Bespoke Suit

Reason: Back in the 1900’s King Edward VII was a fairly healthy Gentleman and was not able to button up his lower button due to his rotund physique. Everyone around him did the same in his presence out of respect for him as to not make him feel inferior. Since then fashion has evolved but it still remains to be an unsaid rule for every Gentleman wearing a two button single breasted bespoke suit to leave the last button undone.

 

2- Always unbutton your bespoke suit jacket when you sit down unless it is a Double Breasted bespoke suit.

unbuttoning bespoke suit jacket

Reason: A double breasted bespoke suit has enough buttons done up to give the bespoke suit jacket a reasonable amount of support when you sit down. However, if you sit down without unbuttoning your single breast bespoke suit jacket, you run the risk of ruining its form and construction apart from looking very sloppy. In the Gentleman’s world, it is the equivalent of dropping your jacket on the floor and stepping on it. In a double breasted bespoke suit your buttons would remain done up all the time as it would float about in a very haphazard manner and look inappropriate if not done up.

3- Always ensure that your bespoke suit tailor keeps the length of your trouser such that the front just kisses the top of the shoe and the back comes mid way behind the shoe.

length of your trouser

Reason: A well tailored bespoke suit trouser will never have too much of a ripple in the front as it looks sloppy and neither should it be too short so as to show your socks when you walk as it’s not a good visual. The trick here is to have the bottom done at an angle so it has only one break in the front and is slightly longer at the back to cover half the shoe. This will make it look smooth and straight in the front and will also never show your socks when you walk.

4- Always choose a proper peak lapel when getting a Double Breasted bespoke suit.

Reason: The Double Breasted bespoke suit which is of English origin is till date chosen by many Royals and Heads of state as their ultimate gentlemen’s armour as it gives a powerful impression when wearing it. A Gentleman always respects tradition and ever lasting style. It is an absolute must that a double breasted bespoke suit is always worn with a Peak lapel just the way others who have changed the world and left their footprint behind have worn it.

5- The bottom of your tie should just kiss the top of your belt when wearing a bespoke suit.

Reason: A famous Gentleman named Oscar Wilde once said “A well tied tie is the first serious step in life.” To show that you are serious you should make sure the length of your tie is such that it doesn’t cover your belt and neither should it be so short that it makes you look disproportionate. It should just touch the belt so that the people looking at you can realize the care you have taken to do up your tie while you look your impeccable best in your bespoke suit.

6- The collar ends should never show from your bespoke suit.

Reason: if your collar ends show from your bespoke suit jacket, it means that enough care has not been taken by your bespoke tailor to craft your bespoke suits which will eventually become an extension of your personality and a companion for life. The collar of your shirt should be broad and wide enough so that the collar points do not pop out from the lapel of your Coat. A Gentleman would immediately see how sloppy this can make you look if not taken care of in the most appropriate manner.

7- Never match your tie and your pocket square when wearing bespoke suits

Reason: If you match your tie and pocket square it tells others that you do not put enough time and thought to the way you dress by going for the most obvious decision, which also reflects on your character and gives people the impression that your decisions in life are made hastily. Make sure your tie and pocket square complement each other by belonging to the same family of colors but do not match it exactly. Matching your tie and pocket square steals away the flair. Its almost as bad as matching your suit and your shirt to the same color which showcases a reflection of your personality in the poorest manner possible.

8- Your belt and shoes should always match whenever you wear bespoke suits.

belt and shoes

Reason: Since your belt and shoes are placed far apart from each other, when you match then it makes everything go in harmony with each other and gives you a more complete look when wearing your Bespoke Suit.

9- Shirt sleeves should always show from your bespoke suit jacket.

Shirt sleeves length

Reason: Make sure at least 1 to 2 centimeters of your shirt sleeves show from your bespoke suit jacket. It is one of the first signs of a well tailored bespoke suit and is one of the most elementary and basic rules to follow in the realm of bespoke tailoring.

10- Always remember to practice with utmost care the mannerisms, ideology and qualities of a true Gentleman when wearing a bespoke suit.

Mannerisms of Gentleman Reason: Back in the days, only true Gentlemen wore bespoke suits and it was a given that a person wearing a bespoke suit was a thorough Gentleman. Both went hand-in-hand in a manner that neither one can be complete in its truest sense without the other. It is for this reason that timeless elegance is enjoyed only by people who wear bespoke suits as being a Gentleman never goes out of style!